Correfoc - welcome to hell
On Sunday, January 29, at 7 pm, the traditional "Correfoc" took place as part of the Sant Sebastià festival. To the festival has yes Martin already written here in the blog, I have then plunged for you in the Correfoc. It began at the Pont de la Riera and led to the center of Palma. 180 kilos of gunpowder for up to 300 "Dimonis" who have not left a gram.
The or Correfoc is a huge spectacle. A large procession through downtown Palma, where the audience interacts with the "devils" or "demons" and fire. Here, "interaction" is really the politically correct version, because the performers of the various devils carry all kinds of pyrotechnics with them, basically chasing the audience in a kind of fire show. The whistling of gunpowder could be heard incessantly all along the way, and those who forgot their earplugs regretted it.
The tradition of Correfocs was born in the early twelfth century, when it was first documented as Ball de Diables (Devil's Ball). Although its origin is somewhat uncertain, it is known that it originated from the medieval street theater. This festival spread throughout the Crown of Aragon, Catalonia, the Kingdom of Valencia, the Balearic Islands and some areas of Roussillon in northern France. The show represents the struggle between good and evil.
For me, it was the first year that I dared to dive into the mass of people who dressed up as thieves to protect themselves from the sparks. The entire track was surrounded by red and white lights to simulate the real underworld. The street lights were also off. "Dimonis" (mallorquin for devils, demons) mingled and challenged the audience. The omnipresent smoke from the gunpowder and the sparks from the pyrotechnics strangely changed the scenery into an almost threatening darkness.
A podium for the dimonis was set up in Calle Jaume III and a central stage was set up in Plaça del Rey Juan Carlos I, where the batucadas (percussion groups) performed. According to Palma City Council, around 33,000 people attended the Correfoc. A spectacle that lasted more than two hours which was far too short for many.
The "Correfocs" are the highlight of the festive week of Sant Sebastià. The first highlight was already on January 20. After two years of pandemic, finally a date that had a fixed place in the calendar for all locals. The "barbecue of the people" transformed Palma into a medieval town full of bonfires. And still in a somehow Christmas atmosphere. What gives concrete? Big fires, the "foguerons", concerts, street music and the possibility of barbecue on every corner.
The local newspapers wrote that it was the most reduced 'Revetla' (Mallorcan word for party with music and atmosphere) in recent years. Instead of the usual 8 places released for concerts and bonfires, this time there were only 5. The reason, according to the City of Palma, was that this year the event management had invested more in other activities away from this mystical night, such as the concert by Antonia Font, which was free to enjoy on January 28 for all who wanted.
However, the difficulty of moving comfortably through the streets due to the large influx of people was the same as always. The response was extraordinary and, as always, it was not easy to move in the epicenter between Plaza España, Plaza Mayor and Plaza Cort.
Therefore, dare to simply drift along the main traffic arteries. Take in the atmosphere, stop at a corner, listen to the "batucadas" (a group of Brazilian rhythm drums with African influences) and just get together with other people. This way you will find your place where you feel comfortable, grill and enjoy the rest of the evening in company. Eventually there will be special moments when people start singing, dancing or laughing while you enjoy your grilled meat in the heat of the flames. This is what Sant Sebastià is all about.
There are two types of barbecue places: the "public" ones, which are usually quite crowded, and the "private" ones, which are run by the bars in the area and available to their customers. It's convenient to just walk into one of these bars that offer meat, drinks and barbecue without having to fight for a spot. If you are a bit more adventurous, you can also bring your own barbecue for your "tribe" and set it up in the square. This option is also very popular and adds tremendous authenticity.
In my case, I opted for the strategy I always recommend. Pick smaller places, away from the big but spectacular crowds like in the Plaza Mayor. I have always appreciated the charm of smaller and warmer, but equally festive and special squares, like Plaça del Pes de la Palla, Plaça Llorenç Bisbal or Plaza Josep Maria Quadrado, which are my walking tips every year.
If you have not experienced San Sebastià, you should remember it and give it a chance next year. It is a unique night in Palma, leaving behind the modern world to enjoy the city in an old and authentic way.
