Correfoc: a devilish hell

On Sunday, 29 January, at 7 pm, the traditional “Correfoc” took place as part of the Sant Sebastià festival. Martin has already written about the festival here on the blog, and I then threw myself into the Correfoc for you. It began at the Pont de la Riera and led all the way to the centre of Palma. 180 kilos of gunpowder for up to 300 “Dimonis”, who didn’t leave a single gram unused.

The Correfoc is a huge spectacle. A large procession through Palma’s old town, in which the audience interacts with the “devils” or “demons” and the fire. “Interaction” is really the politically correct term here, because the performers of the various devils carry all kinds of pyrotechnics and basically chase the crowd with it in a kind of fire show. The whistling of the gunpowder could be heard non-stop along the entire route, and anyone who had forgotten their earplugs regretted it.

The tradition of the Correfocs was born in the early twelfth century, when it was first documented as the Ball de Diables (Devils’ Dance). Although its origin is somewhat uncertain, it is known to come from medieval street theatre. This festival spread throughout the Crown of Aragon, in Catalonia, the Kingdom of Valencia, the Balearic Islands, and in some areas of Roussillon in northern France. The show depicts the battle between good and evil.

For me, it was the first year I dared to plunge into the mass of people who dressed up as thieves to protect themselves from the sparks. The entire route was surrounded by red and white lights meant to simulate the real underworld. The street lighting was also switched off. “Dimonis” (Mallorquin for devils, demons) mingled with the crowd and challenged the audience. Through the omnipresent gunpowder smoke and the sparks from the pyrotechnics, the scene was transformed in a peculiar way into an almost threatening darkness.

On Calle Jaume III, a platform was set up for the Dimonis, and on Plaça del Rey Juan Carlos I a central stage on which the Batucadas (percussion groups) performed. According to Palma’s city council, around 33,000 people attended the Correfoc. A spectacle that lasted more than two hours—far too short for many.

The “Correfocs” are the highlight of Sant Sebastià festival week. The first highlight was already on 20 January. After two years of pandemic, finally a date that had a fixed place in the calendar for all locals again. The “people’s barbecue festival” turned Palma into a medieval city full of bonfires. And all of it still in a somehow Christmassy atmosphere. What’s there, specifically? Big fires, the “foguerons”, concerts, street music and the opportunity to grill on every corner.

The local newspapers wrote that it had been the most scaled-back ‘Revetla’ (Mallorquin word for a party with music and atmosphere) of recent years. Instead of the usual 8 locations approved for concerts and bonfires, this time there were only 5. The reason, according to the City of Palma, was that the event management had invested more this year in other activities away from this mythical night, such as the concert by Antonia Font, which could be enjoyed free of charge by anyone who wanted to on 28 January.

However, the difficulty of moving comfortably through the streets due to the huge influx of people was the same as always. The response was extraordinary and, as always, in the epicentre between Plaza España, Plaza Mayor and Plaza Cort it wasn’t easy to get around.

So do dare, for once, to simply let yourself drift along the main thoroughfares. Soak up the atmosphere, stop at a corner, listen to the “Batucadas” (a group with Brazilian rhythm drums with African influences) and simply mingle with other people. That’s how you’ll find your spot where you feel comfortable, can grill and enjoy the rest of the evening in good company. At some point, there are special moments when people start to sing, dance or laugh while you enjoy your grilled meat in the heat of the flames. That’s what Sant Sebastià is all about.

There are two types of barbecue spots: the “public” ones, which are usually quite busy, and the “private” ones, which are run by the nearby bars and made available to their customers. It’s convenient to simply go into one of these bars that offer meat, drinks and grill supplies, without having to fight for a spot. If you’re a bit more adventurous, you can also bring your own grill for your “tribe” and set it up in the square. This option is also very popular and gives the whole thing enormous authenticity.

In my case, I opted for the strategy I always recommend. Choose smaller squares, away from the big but spectacular crowds like those on Plaza Mayor. I’ve always appreciated the charm of smaller and warmer, yet equally festive and special places, such as Plaça del Pes de la Palla, Plaça Llorenç Bisbal or Plaza Josep Maria Quadrado, which are my insider tips every year.

If you haven’t experienced San Sebastià yet, you should make a note of it and give it a chance next year. It’s a unique night in Palma that leaves the modern world behind to enjoy the city in an old and authentic way.