Predator Blog ·
You have to visit these 2 market halls in Palma
The strange sea creatures in the top picture are called goose barnacles, and you can get them super fresh at the Mercat de l’Olivar market hall in Palma.
The delicious heart of the old town
There are two noteworthy market halls in Palma. The fresh market at Mercat de l’Olivar is the largest of its kind on Mallorca. The building was inaugurated in 1951, and I read that an average of 3,000 people weave through the market halls in Palma every day, with their roughly 120 stalls. Before that, as the history books write, people traded food at many different places in the island’s capital.
The largest fresh market on Mallorca is divided into two large halls. We start our tour with the “Pescadores,” the fishermen. It smells exactly as you imagine. A mix of saltwater, fish, and that slightly musty odor you get in your nose at the beach when everything is full of dead algae. It takes a moment to get used to, but your eyes have plenty to do with this incredible variety of sea creatures on ice and quickly get distracted from it.
If you watch the men and women standing behind the refrigerated counters in Palma’s market halls, you quickly notice that many of these “strollers” – like me – march through the fish hall of the Mercat de l’Olivar every day. Their eyes seem to say: “Stop staring and start buying!” They’re by no means unfriendly, but they also don’t seem particularly keen to be part of the umpteenth vacation Instagram post.
But when the señora comes around the corner who has been buying her fish for paella from them for years, the ice melts in the truest sense of the word, and there’s clapping and chatting the way it should be in a proper market-hall manner.
Fresh fish at the counter
The special thing about the fish hall in the Mercat de l’Olivar is that, alongside plenty of raw delicacies, there’s also plenty that’s already prepared. Small glass display cases present sushi, fish tapas, stews, and lots of sea! The bar stools are comfortable to sit on, and almost everywhere, beer, wine, or champagne is served along with the treats. The food on offer in Palma’s market halls is as extensive as the prices. Personally, I find it still unreservedly recommendable for this special atmosphere nevertheless. You can find more gastro tips besides Palma’s market halls here.
Once you’ve seen and sampled enough fish, you go one door further into the main hall. Here there’s, so to speak, everything else. Fresh Mallorcan fruit is lovingly and appetizingly arranged in abundance. Numerous butchers break down and pack their goods. There are spices, coffee, the Mallorca sea salt “Flor de Sal”.
In addition, in Palma’s market halls you’ll find pretty much everything that could delight a vacationer’s heart. Starting with the paella pan for those with the really big suitcases, via the beach bag in the typical Mallorcan tongue design, all the way to basket-weaving goods and loads of souvenirs.
The stall that probably stands out the most here sells Korean hotdogs and other delicacies from the faraway Asian country. The “Perrito Caliente” comes on a stick and looks quite tasty. I couldn’t try it. Stomach problems! 🙂 Scuzi!
Visiting market halls in Palma? Bring time!
If you visit the Mercat de l’Olivar, then let the little hand on the clock calmly make 2 full turns. You can easily while away two hours here. If you want to see more of the market halls, head to the official site for a little 3D tour.
On Google Maps I would enter this address. Under the Mercat de l’Olivar there is a parking garage with over 300 parking spaces. When I have to go into the city by car, I always park there and have never had any trouble finding a spot for my vehicle . The holy halls are always open from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday to Friday. On Saturday from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.. On almost all Sundays and public holidays the market stalls remain closed. I would recommend going there right after breakfast, or moving the most important meal of the day straight there. The earlier you are there, the richer the selection of everything.
Until a few years ago, in Palma’s market halls on the top floor next to the supermarket there was a restaurant that prepared the fish you had bought in the fish hall directly. The offering still exists, but the place has moved and is no longer in the Mercat. However, it’s not far away either.
The Mercat de Santa Catalina: Smaller and somehow more authentic
I come across men and women in baby-blue and neon-yellow uniforms as I enter the Mercat de Santa Catalina. The early shift of Palma’s municipal street-cleaning service Emaya is treating itself to a beer as I linger at “la fabrica” and Juan Bennasar. Juan is Mallorcan and sells burger patties in all sorts of varieties.
They have them made from beef with truffles and Parmesan, or from rabbit with garlic and rosemary, to name just two variants. Take away only. Juan says: “I’ve been here for 9 years and by now I know a lot of people in the hall.” The vendors here would probably have to rely significantly less on tourists than the competition in the city center. “I love the family feel here.” And yes, it’s true: on this Wednesday, the Mercat feels mostly unruffled.
"I love the family feel here." Juan Bennasar
We don’t need to do another full lap through the Mercat de Santa Catalina. The offerings of the two market halls in Palma are similar. It’s a fresh market, after all. The difference is the urban feeling you get from the guy in the worn blue overalls, because he’s laughing about dirty jokes with the sausage lady while you stir your coffee. That’s the real Palma de Mallorca.
Finally: Pollo Limon
Two things for anyone who has made it this far: first, thank you for your attention. And second, the best comes last. Look at the picture. Even if you don’t like chicken, you have to admit: it looks like it came straight out of a catalog. If you do like poultry, there’s the added fact that, unlike the catalog chicken, it tastes exactly the way it looks. Mr. Poulet in the fresh market Mercat de Santa Catalina and especially his “Pollo Limon” are my insider tip of the two market halls in Palma. Give him my regards and tell him not to skimp on the sauce.
P.S. Parking can be exhausting in the Santa Catalina neighborhood. There’s no underground garage under the market. It’s best to look for a parking garage nearby. Enjoy your meal.